What have we learned?

DesignWell here we are one year and one thousand followers into this thing, this quest for knowledge through our own exploration and discovery. It’s still surreal to think we have as many followers and fans as we do. I think if you’d have told either of us that we’d be hosting workshops out of state, planning private events with our Civilian unit and having literally thousand(s) of followers we would think you were out of your mind, but here we are! So what would we say we’ve learned thus far through all of our travels and experience?

We have learned that…

  • This hobby can be as cliquey and cruel as our high school days, but being kind and welcoming goes a long way in making new friends and alliances.
  • Change can sometimes be hard to accept but with patient guidance and determination we can make a difference.
  • The majority of people are eager to learn and improve, but just don’t know where to start and need a little encouragement.
  • There are so many options for interpretations that there is no need to settle for what everyone else is doing!
  • Developing a persona is more important than hand sewing all of your kit.
  • Events don’t have to be military centric in order to be successful and entertaining.
  • You should enjoy what you’re doing and if not re-evaluate, after all this is a hobby!
  • Using period construction techniques is one of the most important factors in putting together a garment, not hand sewing. Don’t feel like you’re cheating just because you machine sewed interior seams.
  • There is nothing wrong with portraying the upper classes of society.
  • We need to see more cultural and socioeconomic diversity in the hobby. Not everyone living in the colonies was British/Anglo-American.
  • With some work the Midwest could have some great events just like our Coastie friends.
  • Hosting workshops, small demos, and classes at events may be an easy way to share our mission with others within the Midwest.
  • There’s nothing wrong with taking a break from sewing and the hobby for sanity’s sake.
  • We can make waves, good ones, in our little corner of the hobby.
  • With any luck we’ll be twice as successful next year!

Thank you all for the love and support over the past year! Stay tuned for our one year/one thousand followers giveaway announcement coming up on Wednesday of this week!

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Warm Welcomes and a Workshop!

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998 Followers 🙀

Wow! So what can we say? Life just got a little crazy there for a few months, ok maybe more like half the year but you know what I mean. We finally have had some free time in between project deadlines and events to sit down and play catch up on our sad little blog. If you follow us on Facebook and Instagram I’m sure you’ve seen all of our adventures so far this year but for those of you who don’t I’ll get you up to speed with a little update post here. PS you should totally follow us on Instagram because we are literally TWO followers away from 1000 and ready to do a fabulous giveaway!!!

So the first event of the year we spent shivering, sorta, in a semi immersive experience at historic Fort Wayne in Ft. Wayne, IN. It was an amazing site and we had a large group of new friends to meet and interact with. As the event was set in a military fort we were all portraying camp followers of one degree or another. Hayley put to use her fire making skills and kept our side of the blockhouse nice and toasty all weekend. I was committed to playing a hired cook for the officers of the event and spent the vast majority of my waking hours bent over a hearth and directing the other girls to attend to their duties and ensuring people were fed and warm. In other words I was like the house mom.

Fast forward a few months and we set up at the Lowe-Volk Parks Living History Days

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Draping and cutting a new gown for event organizer Julie Rossington 

to forkick off our summer season. We brought out the traveling dressmakers shop and set out to custom drape and sew a gown for the organizer of the event. We hired on a friend to make a team of three and narrowly missed our deadline of finishing by the end of the weekend due to exhaustion, child tending, and just plain unpredictability of events.

A couple weekends later I soloed a timeline event at Fort Meigs for some working class fun as a tippling house or grog shop for the military.

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Sutler for the military photo credit to B&K Photo

During that event I had the pleasure of first being introduced to Frank and Carol Jarboe, wonderful people with impeccable interpretations. I shot out early thanks to bad weather – it always storms for Meigs, ALWAYS- and rested up for the big fun show in July.

The next few weeks were spent sewing up a storm for the Jane Austen a festival held in Louisville, KY. We had a BLAST and it deserves its own post because I could rattle on all day about how much fun we had and everything we got to experience.

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Sipping lavender lemonade and dishing with new friends at the Jane Austen Festival

Which brings us to our most recent event the Revolution on the Ohio Frontier event held at Fort Meigs sponsored by both the NWTA and the BARs Northwest Department.  Again this is an event that deserves a post of its own just because of everything that went on. So look forward to those two posts shortly ☺️.

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Fashion for the Masses Civilian focused fashion show at Fort Meigs 
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You don’t want to miss this

So that’s been our season thus far. We have one more event left to round out our year in October but before then we have a Beginners Living History workshop coming up on Saturday September 29th. The workshop is set up for anyone who is New or interested in the hobby and for those who are seasoned reenactors but are looking to maybe step up their game or see what’s changed in just the past couple of years. We’re hosting the event with the 1st WAC Separate Battalion, Headquarters Company also located in Ohio. For more details and to register for the event please head over to our event page, sorry guys it’s just easier to keep one place updated.

New sure do hope to see you at our workshop and greatly apologize for the lack of attention to our blog *promise we’ll try harder to keep this updated*

Until next time!

Brittany

Let them eat {tea} cakes! HSM January Challenge

 

Finally after years of following various costume bloggers through the annual Historical Sew Fortnightly (now Monthly) challenges I’ve decided to dive head on into my first challenge, no longer content with just watching the fun from the sidelines. My first challenge entry needed to be something that I could do relatively quickly and something pretty that I could wear for a fun social outing with the other Ohio Historic Costumers. I decided a jacket and petticoat would be an easy project to whip up instead of tackling a full gown this time around, especially when January is still a little crazy from the holidays. The challenge was “Mend, Reshape, Refashion” and while perusing Pinterest for ideas I stumbled upon a pretty pink late 1780s Pierrot jacket and just knew it’d be the perfect quick project for our tea. I love jackets, LOVE them. I don’t know why but there’s just something about a saucy little tail and a well fitted jacket that just screams high fashion to me.
So the basic concept was decided, jacket totally easy and requires little fabric. I knew I wanted to stick to minimal costs after just coming out of the holiday season and still needing to purchase things for the real Season. I turned to my stash and was disappointed by the lack of pretty stuff, bleh linen. I began looking at more unconventional means of fabric yardage, I’ve been on a big minimalist kick with getting rid of clothes and stuff we just don’t need or use anymore, part of said purge revealed a pretty cotton candy pink silk slip from a vintage 1930s evening gown. The gown itself was in too fragile of a state for anything other than being stored in a box which rendered the slip pretty much useless. I know I’m going to ruffle some feathers by confessing this but I talked myself into making this once loved antique into something that could serve a greater purpose than taking up valuable closet space. I took my shears and began cutting into it.
I finished my jacket and quilted petticoat ensemble the week of the event. I then decided the night before that I really needed a muff and short cloak, because why not? Crazy right? So I whipped up the fur muff I had been working on from the new American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking and then kind of just winged the short cloak. I’m happy with the results for the most part. The only thing I wish would have turned out better were the fan pleats on the hood, I think the faux fur lining was just a little too bulky so you don’t get that same full effect of a fan. Even though that little bit didn’t turn out quite right the hood covered all of my hair and the cloak managed to keep me dry so that’s a success in my book!

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So more about the fun stuff, the tea party! This was my first event ever doing something fun and for my own enjoyment. Not that I don’t enjoy being an interpreter but going to an event and being asked fifty times a day if that’s “real fire” just isn’t the same as wearing pretty clothes and nerding out on costume discussions. Plus pretty things! I got to wear pretty things, like all of them at the same time! Annnd I was waited on and served in my pretty things which is a breath of fresh air from the usual experiences.
So Hayley and I arrived fashionably late, as usual, because of stuff and things. Being flatlanders from the country we kind of forgot about the whole limited parking situation and wound up wasting even more time, but we did get to see some cool shops while hoofing it to the Asterisk Supper Club. So we make a grand entrance, squeeze into some seats and find ourselves comfortably at ease with these new found friends from the Ohio Historic Costumers group, this was in fact our first time attending any sort of in person get together. And it was great! Who knew so many other awesome like-minded people lived within a short jog from each other? Seriously. It was great.

 


So we spent the rest of the day sipping tea, mmm cardamom, snacking on tiny sandwiches (thank you Earl of Sandwich), and gabbing about hair, fabrics, patterns, and my favorite: how to keep the girls up without the use of Regency stays, hello bodiced petticoat!

 


After we left and said our goodbyes we decided to pop in an antique shop before heading home. No sooner had we entered the door than a gentleman photog stopped in behind us intrigued by our unusual apparel. We chatted and he followed us through the store snapping photos of us, kind of a strange time warp photo session but it was way cool. It felt like we had our very own paparazzi, and I mean we did look like quite fashionable ladies it’s no wonder!

The Wayback Machine
Photo Copyright 2018 Gary Gardiner. Not to be used without written permission detailing exact usage. Photos from Gary Gardiner, may not be redistributed, resold, or displayed by any publication or person without written permission. Photo is copyright Gary Gardiner who owns all usage rights to the image.

So there you have it folks! Our cupcake gown outing was a blast and we both finished up our first Historical Sew Monthly challenge. Down below you’ll find the details on my project and shortly I’ll get an inspo post going for February’s challenge.
Annnnnd we haven’t forgotten about the Thrifty Reenactress series, although I know it seems like it. Our next post on bed gowns will get posted this week, promise. Colds and life just kind of got in the way of things this month.

-Brittany
The Challenge: Mend, Reshape, Refashion – Mend or re-shape one of your previously made historical clothing items, or refashion a new one out of something not originally intended as sewing fabric.
Material: Jacket is made from an original 1930s pink silk slip, lined in a pink linen and trimmed with white and green silk ribbon. The quilted petticoat is made from a vintage silk satin coverlet, lined in pink linen with natural linen ties at the waist.
Pattern: The jacket is mostly self drafted using the Larkin & Smith fashionable gown pattern as a base for the cutaway bodice style with the jacket skirts and back being self drafted based on extant garments and fashion plates.
Year: Late 1780s through the early 1790s
Notions: Natural linen tape for the petticoat waistbands from Wm. Booth, Draper, and a few yards of silk ribbon in green and white.
How historically accurate is it? Pretty HA I’d say! The fit, fabric, and style are all completely period appropriate. The pastel shades of pink and green were very fashionable as well as the abundance of trim. Both garments are completely sewn by hand using period construction techniques and close using straight pins and ties.
Hours to complete: I didn’t keep track of my hours very well but it was a lot for certain. The petticoat was easily finished in about 4 hours while the jacket itself was probably closer to 12 hours. The trim probably added another 4-6 hours for cutting and sewing it on.
First worn: Just this past Saturday at the Ohio Historic Costumers High Tea event.
Total cost: The slip and the bed coverlet as well as the linen lining, white silk for trim, and linen tape were already in my stash. I had maybe $30 wrapped up in green ribbon and then another $15 wrapped up in a faux fur muff and short cloak I made to go with it.

Extra! Extra! Read All About It!

Our planning meeting today was a success! Here is the official press release that was submitted for the BAR quarterly newsletter about our event. We will share more specific details as they fall into place. This is getting really exciting!

New Additions to Ft. Meig’s 2018 Revolution on the Ohio Frontier event!

This August, a totally immersive experience awaits the public at Ft. Meigs. Local history will be celebrated, and colonial life will be illuminated. Visitors will be swept away in an interactive treasure hunt as they chat with tradesmen, soldiers, and sutlers to find clues to the past. Will the runaways hiding in the fort be discovered? What about the petty sutler who disobeyed the posted orders of the regiment? And who is that thief that robbed the artificer’s tent?

These questions and more will be answered as visitors experience mock trials, learn how to feed an army, and watch a team of seamstresses at work. The fort will also boast an Indian settlement, a handful of immigrants fleeing the ravages of battle, and street criers peddling wares.

In addition, visitors will be able to step out of the hustle and bustle and attend one or more of the educational talks given throughout the weekend. Discussions of fashion across the trades and social classes, how to style your 18th century hair, and the basics of hearth and fire cooking will surely enchant and delight. Children can visit the Indian settlement and learn how to tell stories and trade goods, as well as how candles were made.

We need YOU to help make this spectacular weekend come alive! If you are interested in contributing your skills and expertise to this event, please contact Shelly Wachtman at littleblueschoolhouse3@gmail.com, or the Dutch Milliners on their Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/TheDutchMilliners/ Visit the Revolution on the Ohio Frontier: Ft. Meigs Planning/Support Group page for updates on the events, schedule, and to contribute ideas https://www.facebook.com/groups/199016003983586/

-Shelly Wachtman

A Proper Petticoat

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Woman in a Kitchen, Paul Sandby c.1754

The petticoat, or skirt looking thingy, is the basic garment for your bottom half. Every woman no matter her social class or trade wore at least two petticoats, but often times they wore more. They could be left plain or could be trimmed lavishly, could be hemmed or bound with wool tape, and could be printed, solid, striped, or even checked!

For a basic wardrobe for a working class woman you’re going to want two petticoats to start with. These are going to be the easiest garment to sew in your entire kit since they are nothing more than two rectangles of fabric pleated to your waist measurement, hemmed and sewn into a waistband. When selecting fabric we recommend striped linen as it seems to be the most common. Both Burnley & Trowbridge and Wm. Booth, Draper offer a large selection of striped linen perfect for petticoats. If you decide to shop elsewhere for striped (or solid) linen we recommend sticking with shades of blue and brown. If you’d prefer to go with a solid linen we recommend sticking to earth tones, again with shades of blue and brown being the most common. Linen did not take dye colors as well as animal fibers like wool and silk. If you’d prefer a wider selection of colors we recommend looking at worsted wool or even wool flannel for petticoats. Wool petticoats were quite common then, in fact they were so common we need to see more wool gowns/petticoats represented in the hobby than we do now. If you’re concerned with being too hot in wool, do remember that wool like many other fabrics comes in a variety of weights. Tropical or summer weight wool can be so fine and light that you’ll scarcely believe its wool at all. When selecting a wool fabric buy from a reputable seller and pay attention to fiber content. Many wools are sold as wool blends and laws allow for fibers that make up less than 5% of the fiber weight to be simply listed as “other fiber(s)”, so understand what you are buying. Nylon is frequently added to wool to improve durability of the fabric, the NWTA allows for up to 25% of a wool fabric to be made with nylon. Polyester is another fiber frequently added to wool. We believe it’s a decision best left up to an individual as to whether a blend is appropriate. We highly encourage you to research why nylon and polyester is added to wool, how it affects the fabrics wear, and what it means for safety and risk around open flame.

The basic construction of a petticoat is simple and has been covered at length by many before us. We have listed below a number of tutorials as well as relevant research and resources relating to petticoats of the 18th century. The average petticoat requires roughly 2 ¼ yards of fabric, more if you want a fuller petticoat or have a larger waist measurement. The fabric is cut roughly to the length you’d like, which can be anywhere from top of the foot to two inches above the ankle. When

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“Departure from a French Inn”, Grimm, 1775

deciding on the length of your petticoat consider its function and your tasks performed while wearing it. Longer petticoats are easily tripped on when not held out of the way, this could be both difficult and dangerous to manage when hauling wood or water. Both Hayley and myself keep our petticoats right above the ankle bone. Another consideration is how do you want to finish your petticoat, hemming or binding? Binding a petticoat hem with wool tape is a great way to preserve and protect your fabric investment and was a common way to finish a petticoat. Hems of gown skirts and petticoats get a lot of abuse being walked on, drug through the mud, catching on things all will eventually lead to the fabric fraying and even ripping. A binding or tape would take the brunt of this wear, leaving the fabric underneath relatively unharmed. When the binding began to fray or wear excessively it could easily be removed and replaced. When just helming a petticoat the fabric itself is exposed directly to the abuse of daily wear and when it finally gives you’re left with no choice but to clip the ruined edge off. Your poor petticoat would then slowly shrink over time as each successive hem was worn out and cut off again, not a very sound way to treat your investment.

Well, I really think that sums it up for petticoats, they are a pretty basic garment. So rules to remember:

  1. At least two, worn at all times, sometimes more but never less.
  2. Stick to linen or wool for working class. Stripes are your best friend.
  3. Cotton print petticoat only with a matching cotton print gown or jacket (for Anglo descent personas- some ethnic groups through that rule out the window)
  4. Ankle length is a good place to start for working class. Too long and you’ll trip, too short and you’ll look French, Dutch, or German.

-Brittany

Petticoat Research and Resources
https://www.scribd.com/document/173639747/Female-Dress-Petticoats

Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls by Don Hagist

Petticoat Tutorials
http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/18c_petticoat.html
http://blog.americanduchess.com/2011/02/how-to-make-18th-century-petticoat.html
http://fashionablefrolick.blogspot.com/2011/04/threaded-bliss-tutorial.html
http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/rock.shtml (measurements in metric)

 

 

Our Big Fat Announcement

So those of you who follow us on Facebook and Instagram may have caught our livestream Friday night in which we shared some great news with our followers. If you didn’t catch that now’s the chance for y’all to be in on our, not so little, secret!

So as you may know we are in the Midwest region of the US, specifically Ohio, which is kind of a black hole for Rev War and 18th Century events. We have a few here and there that are sort of close and meh, nothing to get too excited about and definitely nothing close to the scale of events our East coast neighbors tend to put on. We had the opportunity to attend an event put on by both the NWTA and BAR last summer at the historic 1812 fort located in northwest Ohio called Fort Meigs. The event drew some big name vendors including Wm. Booth, Draper and Samson Historical, as well as a number of units and individual participants. The site itself is beautiful and it’s staff and volunteers are amazing, we truly had a wonderful experience. The event however, needs a little umph, a little something to help it grow and become the kind of event everyone has on their schedule. It has so much potential! We saw it immediately and started chatting up some of the staff about the possibility of hosting some workshops and activities there. So that brings us to our announcement…

We want to make the Fort Meigs event AWESOME! We have so many ideas for activities, presentations, and new content for the public – like we’re bursting with excitement and ideas. But, BUT we can’t do this alone. Which is where you guys come into play. You see we’re all in this hobby for a reason, and what better reason to help grow and improve the hobby than to join us in our new venture? After all we’re just two people. So we have created a Facebook group called “Revolution on the Ohio Frontier: Fort Meigs Planning/Support Group” and we’d love it if you would join and help us out, even if you can’t make it there physically we’d love your support and opinions through the planning process.

Right now we need a solid team to help pull this off. We’d like to get together a group of people who can help us achieve our goal, have some rock solid planning in place and then take it to Fort Meigs, the BAR and the NWTA ultimately for their approval of adding these events to the schedule. So are you in?

The Art of Keeping Warm: Cold Weather Clothing

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We received a special request, in light of this recent cold snap, to talk about winter clothing for women of the 18th century and figured what better time than now as we thaw out from these -22 temperatures we’ve been having here in the Midwest. So sit back, grab a blanket, and think warm thoughts as we share some of the best ways to stay toasty for those upcoming chilly events.

Layers are the name of the game when it comes to staying comfortably warm in the 18th century. So let’s start with those toes! Silk works as a great insulator and is still used today for base layer garments. It’s lightweight, easy to layer, wicks moisture away better than cotton and can help you regulate your temperature which makes it perfect for winter events. When getting dressed don your silk stockings first before putting on those wooly ones and your toes and legs should stay reasonably warm.

If you know you’re going to be heading to a handful of winter events I’d recommend investing in a flannel shift and flannel under/modesty petticoat. If you tend to run hot, overheat easily, or know you’ll be frequently indoors/near a fire you may want to consider if a flannel shift is needed. If you’re on a march or doing demos outside exposed to the cold you’ll probably be ok with that flannel shift. Overall, soft, warm base layers can be the difference between shivering at an event and being comfortable.

Speaking of petticoats, layer those up to help keep your thighs and legs warm. Adding a quilted petticoat can help keep the warmth in, it almost creates a pocket of warm air especially when layered with other petticoats on top. On any given day I wear at least two petticoats, sometimes three, but when expecting an event to be chilly I may wear up to five petticoats if that’s what it takes to keep my butt warm.

Next I’d consider adding a quilted waistcoat before putting on my gown. There are a few surviving examples of these waistcoats, which may have been the inspiration behind that mythical (and terribly inaccurate) “bodice” so frequently worn to 18th century events. Sharon Burnston has written a great amount of research on quilted waistcoats for women and has graciously provided a pattern for making one of your own. This garment, like jumps and stays, is meant to be worn underneath your gown or jacket. This is not an outerwear piece like our modern down vests, but more like an 18th Century long john/ long underwear style top.

So now you’re essentially dressed, you have your gown on and the next layer to help keep you warm would be your cap. I’d opt for a cap with long lappets that I could tie under my chin or otherwise use to cover my ears. Atop my cap I’d tightly tie a handkerchief to help block out the wind, again silk would be my top pick because of how great of an insulator it is without adding bulk. Speaking of silk handkerchiefs, I’d be layering my neck handkerchiefs to help keep my bosom warm. First I’d start with silk before adding a heavier handkerchief like one of those nice linsey-woolsey ones from Burnley & Trowbridge. Aside from a hooded cape/cloak/mantelet I’d afix a bonnet, preferably silk or wool to help block the wind from head and face and keep in all that heat.

So now we’re left with exposed lower arms and the upper body to keep warm. Mitts are the most obvious answer for keeping the lower arms warm. We see mitts made of silk, leather, wool, and even repurposed from old worn out stockings. We’ve previously shared a DIY pattern for making your own 18th Century mitts which are a serious must have item for any event. They’re great at keeping the cold and bitter wind away during the winter and perfect for sunburn prevention in the warm summer months (ask Hayley how we know this!). For keeping hands and lower arms warm we’d also consider a muff, depending on the event and what we were doing. Muffs of fur or silk made with a wool or silk lining are perfect at keeping hands warm. They’re great for events when you’re not doing much of anything but seem, IMO, impractical for any event where you’re actually needing to use your hands.

Last layer we’re going to mention is the cloak, mantle, cape or what have you. These often had hoods and were commonly made of wool, most popular color seems to have been a pretty shade of red which earned them the name cardinals. A nice close fitting hood can help keep the heat in around the head and neck area. The cloak itself could be made in different lengths and works the same as a modern coat by acting as the outermost layer to block the wind and trap the heat close to the body. We are working on cloaks of our own using the research and pattern graciously made available by Sue Felshin. We definitely recommend a cloak as the bare minimum for winter clothing.

So there you have folks! Layering up is about the best way to keep warm for chilly events. As with anything we recommend using your best judgement when preparing for an event. If temperatures are in the negatives or with severe wind chills we’d highly recommend the use of modern base layers and hand warmers. These kept out of sight are a compromise I’m willing to make since they don’t outwardly affect my overall interpretation, but that choice is a very personal one to make.

Stay warm and happy sewing!

-Brittany

 

 

Lucy Locket and Her Pocket

 

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“Lucy Lockett lost her pocket, Kitty Fisher found it.
Not a penny was there in it, only ribbon wrapped around it.”

To most modern folks this nursery rhyme simply makes no sense, pockets for most of our memory have been sewn into our garments, sans ribbon. 18th Century pockets, on the other hand, were essentially medium sized bags with an opening that were tied to the waist (along with everything else). Pockets varied in size and shape as well as the materials used to make them with. Sparing you the pockets lecture I’d highly recommend the following sources before starting your project.

Pocket Research
http://www.sew18thcentury.com/2011/10/pick-pocketing.html
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/a/history-of-pockets/
https://pin.it/zvyezorgbbcf7u
https://rihs.wordpress.com/2011/12/23/whats-in-a-pocket/amp/
http://www.larsdatter.com/18c/pockets.html

Pocket Tutorials
https://teainateacup.wordpress.com/tag/18th-century-pockets/
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/m/make-your-own-pocket/

I’m generally one of those people who prefers to buy everything in a kit rather than having to track down each little piece, while pockets seem simple enough they do have lots of little tedious bits that need purchased like the fabric itself, something to bind it with, tape to secure them to yourself, and embroidery thread if you so choose to have pretty pockets. I decided not to waste time and money and just bought a pocket kit through Wm. Booth, Draper. The basic pocket kit comes with ½ yard of unbleached linen, 2 yards of ½” wide linen tape, one spool of beige 50/3 linen thread and a bundle of strips of reproduction cotton prints for binding . The kit is intended to be made in a class so there will not be a pattern or instructions that come with it but that’s not a big deal at all.

You can easily order a pattern for pockets, Kannik’s Korner has a pattern for stockings, pockets and mitts that is available for $14.00 through Wm. Booth, Draper. If you’d like to save some money, and who doesn’t?, I’d advise improvising with your own pattern! My pockets are being made with the tutorial provided by the V&A Museum, as well as help from the Tea in a Teacup post. I ironed my linen and roughly drew out the shape I wanted based on the pocket dimensions in the “Teacup” post. I then scaled up a design I wanted to embroider on each of my pockets and transferred it to the pockets.

Now I won’t lie to you fine folks, my pockets are not finished. They are on the back burner… way, way, way back there. I know I should have them and they could be useful but for now I have gotten by without them. In their stead I have been using a market wallet for general carrying of stuff, small hand basket, and a frail from Mrs. Boice’s Historie Academie. Will I ever finish my pockets? Yes, eventually. Should you make your pockets? Yes! They really do provide an interesting topic for discussion with the public, sort of similar to the “What’s in your purse?” question and they can be used to easily hide away those modern necessities like cell phones, keys, credit cards, and cash. Two pockets makes that even easier if you devote one solely to modern items while the other remains the “show and tell” pocket. For a more detailed look at what a woman might have carried in her pockets check out this blog post written by Carrie Fellows over at the 17th Regiment of Foot.

 

So pockets, while not necessary are extremely useful, simple to make, and great little projects that can be worked on while at events- perfect for an entire pocket discussion!

 

The Great Project List of 2018

The Great Project List 2018

As I mentioned in yesterday’s post I’m going to try really hard to be more organized with my projects and a big part of that is thoroughly planning out a project before I even think about cutting out fabric. You’ll notice this year my list includes a lot more “fun” projects and in a few other time periods as well, all a part of my goal to have more fun this year and really enjoy myself and my sewing. As an added bonus the majority of my planned projects fit nicely with many of the themes for this years Historical Sew Monthly challenge.

  1. 1780s Blush Pink Silk Pierrot Jacket with White Silk Quilted Petticoat
  2. Regency Underthings: Stays, Bodiced Petticoat, and Corded Petticoat
  3. 1770s/1780s Chintz Italian Gown
  4. Early 1800s Roller Print Muslin Bib Front Gown
  5. 1810s Green Polka Dot Over Gown with Brown Bodiced Petticoat
  6. 1790s La Femme du Sans Culottes
  7. 1830s Roller Print Day Dress
  8. 1760s/1770s Gold Embroidered Navy Silk Pet en L’air
  9. 1780s Dutch Silk Mitts
  10. 1790s Hand Painted Leopard Print Muslin Round Gown

 

1780s Blush Pink Silk Pierrot Jacket
IMG_2873As part of my resolutions for 2018 I wanted to have more fun and go to some social events rather than focusing strictly on living history. I did some digging and joined the Ohio Historic Costumers, which is a group of like minded individuals who basically get together to wear all their fun costumes they make. The first organized event of the year is high tea at the Asterisk Supper Club in Columbus. Obviously, I needed a new outfit to wear, because goodness knows I can’t wear the same boring pretty gown over and over. Where’s the fun in that? I mulled over my stash not wanting to spend too much extra and figured a jacket could be made out of something I had laying around. I found a silk slip, which I had unfortunately outgrown, that was made for one of my early 1930s gowns and figured that’d be the perfect material for a new little jacket. I’ve been busy working on the construction but it’s been a slow process, for which I will save all the details of for another post! But check out these inspiration photos and my progress.

 

Regency Underthings: Stays, Bodiced Petticoat, and Corded Petticoat
This year I’ve decided to take part in a couple events that take place during my favorite time period, the early 19th century. I’ve been dying to go to the Jane Austen Festival at Historic Locust Grove in Louisville, KY for years and this will be the year I go! Naturally new undies will be required and since both of these regency events will be during the early summer I need to get to sewing on them soon. I’ve decided to go with a set of long stays to help smooth out my fluffiness and better support the girls. I’ve worn them before and much prefer them to short stays or the weird wrap bra/stays thing from the Kyoto collection. I need to whip up a bodiced petticoat in chocolate to go with another project and then a white corded bodiced petticoat to wear underneath the chocolate one as well as the round gown I’m planning towards the end of the year and the bib front roller print gown. More details on these undies coming soon!

1770s/1780s Chintz Italian Gown

Our big family event this year is shaping up to be Mount Vernon. Our eldest son ha been begging to go for about eight months now so we decided to add it to our calendar and see what happens. Turns out the fabulous Eliza of Sass and Silk will be in attendance as well, so yet again I obvs need a new gown (or three) to wear for the weekend! I’m planning on taking my silk jacket ensemble but I need a new gown, preferably using my huge length of Ljusöga cotton print from IKEA.

To be honest I’m not quite sold on the idea of an Italian gown, I just bought the new American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking and their Italian gown is very pretty and made with a very similar print to my fabric but I don’t know if it’s fabulous enough to wear when out with Miss Eliza, the Queen of 18th Century Fashion. My second thought was how about a robe a la’francaise? I’ve seen a handful of extant examples of pretty cotton prints and chintz done up as sacque backs and they just look so feminine and pretty. So right now I guess you’d say my third project is still undergoing planning but I’d love to hear your opinion, so in the comments vote for Italian gown or Robe a la ’Francaise!

Early 1800s Roller Print Cotton Bob Front Gown
My first Regency era gown of the year is going to be my rendition of this extant bib front gown. I’m not sure exactly how it happened but I’ve had this fabric in my stash for over a decade and somehow, while perusing Pinterest, found this gown and the similarities were so striking I knew I had to make it! I’ve actually done quite a bit of planning for this project and I’m going to use the pattern from Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion, which will also be my first attempt at scaling up a gridded pattern that is more involved than a cap or simple bedgown. This will also be one of the gowns I plan to wear at the Jane Austen Festival!

1810s Green Polka Dot Over Gown with Chocolate Bodiced Petticoat
So this outfit is one that I am pretty excited about and is probably the most simple and only working class outfit on my project list thus far. In July we’ll be headed to the Historic Daniel Boone Home in Missouri for their Independence Day Weekend event to join up with the Ox Bow Tavern for some fun dabbling in early 19th century interpretation. Mr. Frederick will be working in the woodworking shop as a carpenter and I’ll be spending my time helping in the bakery. I’m still working out the cap she’s wearing but overall this should be an easy and quick project. B1C9B324-A190-4589-AABF-4CF02CC5C814

We’re going to stop here for today and wrap up the rest of my “Great Project List of 2018” next week. So until then, let us know what projects you have in the works and whether I should choose the Italian gown or the Sacque back gown.

Brittany

New Year, New You

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As we ring in the New Year talk of resolutions, diets, and turning a new leaf are as common as bottles of bubbly and noise poppers. It’s this time of year when it always feels appropriate to sit down and set some goals for the upcoming year and reevaluate our previous ventures. This year I’m doing things a little different and have decided to share with you all my goals for the upcoming year, if only to encourage you to set your own. You know that whole “new year, new you” thing! So without further ado my goals for the 2018 year.

  1. Thoroughly Plan Projects
  2. Personal Persona
  3. Engaging the Public
  4. Have More Fun!

Thoroughly Plan Projects
So I have this habit of getting really excited about a project, working on it for awhile, then getting bored or frustrated and tossing it aside for a new shiny, exciting one. Sound familiar? Yeah, my UFO pile is about as tall as my toddler so I really need to break this habit and what better time to begin than at the start of the new year. My goal is to thoroughly research a project before beginning it, starting with compiling my personal documentation papers for the piece along with inspiration pictures and fabric swatches to put in my resource notebook for events. I will gather all of my materials needed for the project beforehand to help stay within budget and avoid delays and if using a new pattern, I will look for multiple reviews online to familiarize myself with any common issues. I’m hoping by instituting this “rule” I will stay on task better and actually complete more projects than I did last year.

Personal Persona
Having one full year of 18th Century living history under my belt now I’m ready to fully commit to my two personas. My goal is to finalize all of the details for my two separate personas which will make them distinct characters but not so different that it becomes confusing or overwhelming to remember. I’ve based both of my personas on my personal family history of the time and have added details and changed some dates to make them fit with the scenarios we often play out at events. From experience building a persona that closely resembles your own life makes it easier (and more believable) when actually portraying said persona. I’m planning to type up my personas’ life story and include it in my resource notebook with all of my documentation papers I mentioned in my first goal. These two personas and their accompanying documentation will be divided in the binder for easy organization. To build onto this goal I plan to continue developing skills that will further prove my persona such as continuing to learn the Dutch language.

As a heads up for inquiring minds, I’ll be doing a post in the near future on building a persona and will share some more details about my personas and some awesome worksheets to help you get started on building your own!

Engaging the Public
Ok, this may come as a surprise but I am a huge introvert; like near debilitating social anxiety kind of introvert. So why in the world would a huge anxious introvert decide to take up a hobby that involves actually engaging with strange people? Yea… I have no idea either but here I am! Thanks to years of working in retail and customer service I’ve become so much better about having to engage with strangers but sadly still have a lot of anxiety surrounding talking to people at events especially when they see me as the “expert”. I know from personal experience as a spectator that interactive and engaging living historians are a lot more interesting than static displays or those who simply ask , “do you have any questions?” , which usually elicits a shake of the head or a grumbled no before moving on. I also know as a spectator there is nothing worse than being asked a question on the spot, especially if it’s something you know nothing about (please don’t ask me anything about the ACW!?!). So my goal this year is to come up with a list of ways I can comfortably (for me and them) engage the public and draw them into my area and activity. As of this exact moment in time I think this will be my most difficult challenge and to be completely honest I don’t even know where to start, so maybe in the comments you could leave me a tip about your favorite way to engage the public?

Have More Fun!
So this really seems like it should be a no brainer, hobbies are meant to be fun and enjoyable but I realized after this year I didn’t actually enjoy or have fun at a handful of the events I went to. Stress to “perform” to certain personal expectations, a few high traffic events with little rest from the public eye combined with too many camp responsibilities altogether made for less than fulfilling engagements at too many events. I enjoy meaningful engagements with the public, the kind that bring about thoughtful conversations and active, willing participants. On the whole I had that happen at only three events of the season and coincidentally those were the three events that really made my season. By the end of the year I realized I was burned out and needed to decompress from the 18th Century for a good month before I could even stomach to begin preparations for next year. This year my goal is to make more time for fun events where the focus isn’t on performing for the public. I want to attend a ball, maybe a few social outings in pretty cupcake gowns, and even try out a few other time periods like going Regency for the Jane Austen Festival at Historic Locust Grove. I think taking some time for selfcare while still being active in the hobby will be a great way to keep my spirits up and remind me that this isn’t a job and it’s meant to be fun, even though I take it seriously.

So as a final word before we ring in the New Year, take some time this week to think over the previous year and come up with your own list of goals and resolutions. If you’re a newbie now is the time to think about what you’d like to accomplish in your first year, start small and be kind to yourself. I’d love to see your resolutions and goals so list them in the comments below!

– Brittany

ps. As a special bonus post I’m going to share my sewing/costuming goals for the New Year along with some of my inspiration for the various projects I hope to accomplish.